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Frost heave isn't really caused by just the moisture in the soil freezing (and the subsequent small volume increase) It seems to me that if. It becomes an issue when ice lensing happens

Hoarfrost | Formation, Deposition, Sublimation | Britannica

This is when a horizontal layer of ice forms and continues to grow in thickness as water is drawn into the freezing layer through capillary action in the soil If so, how much, or should it be turned down onto the strip footing/grade beam No, frost depth is not always required if what you are supporting can withstand the movement

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However, for most pipe racks we have designed we have gone to frost depth.

However there is still some potential for frost heave, especially of there are variations in the soil As mentioned in the other thread, would be best to insulate footings having inadequate cover (side of wall below grade and laterally over footing) to maintain soils thawed under footing. Frost depth always has been and should be to the bottom of the footing You are trying to avoid a condition where frost occurs in the soil directly under a footing and in which case the soil expands (or rather the moisture freezes and expands within the soil matrix) and dislocates the footing.

Hi, guys, need help here If frost depth is determined for a county, how many tests do they perform before the county is satisfied with their estimate of frost depth Is climate change taken into account in frost depth calculations It seems to me that there are a ton of variables that could affect frost depth, so am just curious how these numbers are typically determined.

On the other hand, dry, clean, sand or gravel may freeze without heaving

Heave can vary a lot from year to year depending on moisture conditions and weather. Frost heave can only occur when all of the following three conditions are present When calculating the passive resistance of the soil below the frost depth is it proper to consider the passive pressure based on the actual depth or should the passive pressure be calculated on the actual depth minus the frost depth For example if the frost depth is 2' and my passive pressure.

For a floating slab on grade, what is best practice at an exterior door I assume the slab edge should get extended to the outside face of the wall Does the slab edge need to be thickened